If the idea of Dubai with its grandiose projects, theme parks and shopping malls overwhelms you, head for Oman, where you’ll discover the mystique and romance of old Arabia alive and well in a safe, friendly country with 21st century infrastructure. Oman has scenery in startling variations: deserted beaches, windswept mountain plains, deep canyons, oases, dry river beds and sand dunes. It also has some world-class dive sites and the chance to spot dolphins and turtles in the wild. But the real reason for visiting Oman is to delve into the history of the region: to explore medieval forts and palaces, visit bedouin villages and camel markets, and get lost in winding souks piled high with antiques, perfumes, frankincense and myrrh. It is possible to get a taste of Oman in three or four days by sticking to Muscat and the historic mountain town of Nizwa, but to feel you’ve done the country justice, you should spend at least a week, visiting the 17th century fort at Jabrin, with its carved and painted ceilings, the weekly camel market at Sinaw, the eerie abandoned village of Tanuf, the Bait Al Zubair museum in Muscat and the wild, windswept dunes of Wahiba. The best drive is along the coast road between Muscat and Sur — inside four hours, you’ll see fishing villages, lush river valleys and nature reserves full of flamingos and gazelles. The best souk is in Muscat, where stalls groan under the weight of antique silver (all sold by weight), tribal art from Zanzibar, dishdashas, frankincense and exotic perfumes. The selling is refreshingly low-key, too, with no hassle and mostly fixed prices. 40
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