Regions of France

Montpellier Perpignan Carcassonne Nimes Q Q heLanguedoc likeneighbouringProvence /Côted’Azur are theonly two regionsofFrance thatcanbedescribed asMediterranean.And like itsmoreglitzypartner its coastdeliversa spectacularprocessionof inviting beaches,whilst thehillsandmountains that springup sometimes withinmeremilesof the shorelinearehome toamultitudeof fortifiedvillages,which onceoffered safety frommaurauding banditsFranksandSaracensduring thedarkages. The landof the ‘Midi’tellsawoeful taleofbitter struggles thatculminatedfirstly in thepapalcrusadeagainst the ‘heretic’Cathars (seebelow)and thenwith the systematicpersecutionof the ‘heretic’protestantHuguenots.Resistancehas thereforealwaysbeenabyword to the spiritof theLanguedoc,which resurfaced inWWIIwith themostorganisedopposition toGermanoccupation. Inquieter times the regionhasdevelopedamassive tablewinegrowing industry. Today, the regionofLanguedoc-Rousillionoffersan impressivediversity that both reflects itshistorical rootsand itsambitions for the future.Thiscanbebest identified through the region’skeycitiesofNimes (thegateway to the Camargue)with itsbeautifullypreservedRoman imonuments in the fareast, the thrivingmodernmetropolisofMontpelierand themagnificent fortified medievalcityofCarcassonne. The Languedoc T Now regardedasgenocide, theeliminationof theCathars inMedieval Languedoc lay the foundations for thecreationof theCatholicChurch’s infamousanti-heresypolice, thedreaded ‘Inquisition’.AnantiCatholic movement,whichoriginated in theBalkans,andwhichadvocateda return to theChristianmessageofperfection,povertyandpreaching,combinedwitha rejectionof thephysical to thepointofstarvation thrived in theLanguedoc, especiallyaround the townofAlbi.Essentially thesebelieverswereobjecting to thecorruptionof theChurchofRome,and itwas theirdissention thatbought on the ireof thepapacyand the resultingAlbigensianCrusadeof the13th century to rid the landof these foulheretics.Thoseofamorepoliticalbearing willalsoview this irradicationasaclevergameplayby theKingdomofFrance toabsorb theLanguedoc (countyofToulouse) into its territories. TheCathars Orleans Amboise Chenonceau Villandry Chambord Sully-sur-Loire Blois Tours Chinon NANTES Saumur Angers St-Nazaire Chartres Dreux ottedwithancientvillages,filledwitharchitectural splendourand famed for itsvineyards, theLoireValleywill delightbothhistoriansandepicureans.Explore the turretedchateauxand theirmagnificentgardens in the UNESCOWorldHeritage listedcentral rivervalley.Wander thehistorical townsandcitiesof the region.Or simplyenjoy the relaxedfineryofyour owncountry retreat,whichmaywellbeaoneofmanyfineChateau gotels,sippingSancerreorPouilly-Fuméwith some localgoatscheese. Nestling in formalgardensand surroundedbymoats, theLoireValleyChateauxare architecturalwonders in themselves.Thereareover40across the region, fromgiants likeChateaudeChenonceau to smaller–no less stunning–examples suchasChateau d’Azay-le-Rideauon the IndreRiver.Wander through themandmarvelat their aristocratic lavishness. FromTouraine toSancerre, thewineareasof theLoireValleyareadmired for their qualityand sheerdiversity.Known forcrisp, fruitywhitewinesusingCheninblanc, SauvignonblancandMelondeBourgognegrapes, there isalsoawealthof sparkling anddessertwines tobe savouredwithyourfinedining. Alsoknownas ‘theGardenofFrance’,a trip to theLoireValleypromisesgastronomic treats.Expect fresh seasonalproduceanddishes featuring freshwaterfish.Succulent pork recipesarealso favouredand thanks to thevast tractsofunspoilt forest,youwill oftenfindgameandwildmushroomsonmenuswhen in season. D Mallorca isemergingasa topdestination for -eco-minded travellersand theslow food trend.ChefMariaSolivellasco-founded the Balearicbranchof theworldwideSlowFood movement in2007andhasnever looked back.Shenow runsCanaToneta restaurant,originally foundedbyher motherCatalinaRotger, togetherwithher twosisters,TeresaandCati.The foodatCa naToneta isstrictlyseasonal,basedalmost entirelyon local,organicproducts,muchof whichcomes from slow foodtrendgathers pace Loire Valley ROUEN Evreux Alençon Saint-Lô Caen Deauville PontL’Eveque Honfleur Avranches Dieppe Cherbourg LeHavre Fecamp Bayeux LeMontSt-Michel TheD-DayBeaches reateventshavebeenwitnessedover the last thousand years inNormandyand the seahas invariablyplayed its rolefirstas the stagingpoint in1066of theNorman invasionofEnglandand in reverseas thearrivalpoint for themassed forcesof theAllies in1944.This richandoftenbrutalpast isbroughtvividly to lifeby the spectacularand iconic island monasteryofMontSt-Michel; the incomparableBayeuxTapestry, world-famous for itsdepictionof theNormanconquests;and the transfixingcemeteriesandmemorialsalong theD-Daybeaches, placesof solemnpilgrimage. Ona somewhatmorepeacefulnote, the regionofNormandydeliversa thoroughly wholesomeandvaried landscapewith long rollingbeaches, soaringcliffs,quaintports and traditional seaside townsbehindwhich stretchesaverdantcountrysideof fruit orchardsandpastureland interspersedbywoodlands (Bocages)andevenanupland areadescribedas the“SuisseNormandie”.Such is thenaturalappeal that theareahas longbeen the inspiration forartists,especially the impressionists,whowere sofixated by theareaand thepastoralappeal thatartists likeSisleyandMonet regularly decamped fromParis in favourof thevarying light (andperhapsabitof the seaside delights)of thecoast inplaces likeHonfleur,Deauville,Fecampand thecliffsatEtretat. OfcourseanyoverviewofNormandywouldbe incompletewithoutamentionof its richculninarydelicacies. It isparticularly renowned for itsdairyproduce.Every restaurantwillproudlydisplayabewilderingselectionof the region’s famoussoft cheeses. All thecheeseswithAOCcertificationherearenamedafter theirvillageof origin;connoisseurscanvisiteachvillageonan indulgent touralong thecheese route. Normandy G Normandy isFrance’sapple region.Thereare800varieties ofapplesgrown there,andappleorchardshaveexisted sinceat least the8thcentury.Therearenovineyardsand thegrapeplayssecondfiddle to theapple.Calvadoscan onlybemade inNormandy,anduses thesameprocessas cognac. Itsalcoholcontent ismuchhigher thancidre,and isaged inoakcasks foraminimumof1year. It isadigestif, servedafterameal.At times it isserved in themiddleofa multi-coursemeal toclean thepalate,preparing it for the rest.This isknownasa “trouNormand”,aNormandyhole. The spiritoftheApple 46 wathedwith lavenderfields,dotted withmedievalhilltopvillagesand gracedbyelegantcities, the southeastern regionofProvence stretches from theRhône in thewest to the Italianborder in theeastand south to the Mediterranean. Its lightand landscapes inspired bothPaulCézanneandVincentvanGogh,and youcan strollalong the leafyboulevardsof the former’shomecityofAix-en-Provenceand trace theworksof the latter inArlesandSaint-Rémy- de-Provence. For instance,head south fromBari tovisit the bewitching townofAlberobellowith its large concentrationof trulli,Puglia’suniqueconical vaultedcottages. It is said that this typeof constructionwasused since itwaseasy to dismantleasancient local laws forbade permanent settlement.Thankfully, in1797, Alberobelloachieved ‘town’statusand the restrictionsweredropped,andyet thesequirky workerscottages remained. Although located in theneighbouring regionof Basilicata, thehilltop townofMatera,whichwas awarded the2019EuropeanCapitalofCulture, ishome toanother intriguing styleof accommodation, theancientSassi.Thesepre- historiccavedwellingscarved into the sidesof theaprecipitous ravine, someofwhichdate palazzo. provence S Mas is thenamegiven toa farmhouse,built with localstone.Originally the “mas”was intendedasastoragearea foragricultural products,aself-sufficienteconomicunit, whichstored fruits,vegetables,cereals,milk andsoon.Amashasnowindowson the northside,due to themistral–adramatic wind thatwhistlesfiercelydown theRhone and thenswingseastwardsalong thecoast. Thewindowsarenarrow forprotection against theheatduring thesummerorcold during thewinter.Manyof theseold farmhouseshavebeenconverted into fashionablevillasandcharminghotels. What isa ‘MAS’? 52 The Languedoc Loire Valley Normandy 34 40 46 52 Provence Nice Antibes Monaco Menton Cannes Saint-Raphael Saint-Tropez LeLavandou Saint-Maxime Fréjus Hyères Ilesd’Hyères oulon etween the seaandmountains, theMediterranean shores fromSaint-Tropez toMenton, thehillsof Provenceand theAlpineMercantourMassif, theCôte d’Azuroffersagreatdiversityof landscapes.Thebeauty of itsbeachesand the splendourof its luxuryhotels, the fameof itsFestivalsand thecelebrityof itsArtistscreatea lovelybalance with thegreen forestsandvalleysof themountainhinterland, the red-tile roofsof itsage-oldperchedvillagesand thebrightyellow ofmimosas inbloom. TheAlpes-Maritimesdepartment,whichextends from theborderwith Italy to theedgeof theEsterel,holdsmany treasures: sublime landscapes,preserved nature,culturalheritage,etc. In thisplace, famous inFranceand in theworld, bathed in sunshineandwhichcombines the seaandmountains,youcan breathedeeply.Howeveryouchoose toexplore theAlpesMaritimesyouwill alwaysfind specialplaces.Beacheswith turquoisewatersorwildgarrigues, it is up toyou tochoose the itinerariesyou like,andaccording toyourpreference. Niceand thePromenadedesAnglais, thePrincipalityofMonacoand its famous Rock,Cannesand itsCroisette,Mandelieu-la-Napoule, Juan lesPins,etc.There is no shortageof famousplaces tovisit.Culture isalsoverypresent,with prestigiousmuseums suchas theVillaEphrussideRothschildand itsgarden in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrator theMaeghtFoundation inSaint-Paul-de-Vence,and CôTE D’AZUR B Adaywithoutwine isadaywithoutsunshine! ...sogoes theanonymousProvencalsaying.On theCôted’Azur the sun invariablyshines to theaccompanimentofchinking glassesofchilledProvenceACRosé.Throughout Antiquity,due to tradeand invasion,knowledgeand awarenessofwinespreadacross theMediterranean. When thePhocaeanswasheduponProvence’scoast in 600BC, they foundedMarseilleandventureddeeper into the region,bringingwith them theirwinecultureand shipsstockedwith ‘light-coloured’wineswhichProvence wouldgoon tohoneover thecenturies,ultimately resulting in theworld’sbest rosés. 2622 YEARSOFROSÉ Cassis To Côte D’Azur 28