Regions of France
wathed with lavender fields, dotted with medieval hilltop villages and graced by elegant cities, the southeastern region of Provence stretches from the Rhône in the west to the Italian border in the east and south to the Mediterranean. Its light and landscapes inspired both Paul Cézanne and Vincent van Gogh, and you can stroll along the leafy boulevards of the former’s home city of Aix- en-Provence and trace the works of the latter in Arles and Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. As the chic Cote d’Azur gives way to rolling hills, the old province of Provence offers vistas of a granite- flecked landscape dotted with lavender fields. Arguably the wildest of these views feature the Camargue, a place where red salt lagoons camouflage the unexpected presence of pink flamingos and where herds of white horses wander, captivating in their mystique. However, the quintessential Provencal landscapes are to be found in the Luberon, an area to the north of Aix en Provence. If you envision a rich countryside of vineyards, olive groves and lavender; hill-top villages; daily markets; family-run wineries; eating outside for most of the year - and if you're seeing it all in the clear, saturated light of the south - then yes, you have the Luberon in mind. France’s second city can also lay claim to being its oldest. Ever since Greek traders settled in this sunny corner of the Mediterranean in 600 BC, Marseille has been humming with the comings and goings of a significant port, although today’s tourist is likely to have been drawn by the beautifully regenerated city centre, rich in museums, seafood restaurants and boutiques. Perhaps it was Peter Mayall’s endearing books on the region which kickstarted the present British love affair, but there is no doubt that Provence has come to symbolise, like Tuscany in Italy, the idyllic rural , Mediterranean lifestyle of salad days in the sun. It’s not a new fad, as the Romans built impressive settlements in Arles, Orange and Nimes, and the papacy even moved its operations to Avignon when it had to flee Rome. provence S Mas is the name given to a farmhouse, built with local stone. Originally the “mas” was intended as a storage area for agricultural products, a self-sufficient economic unit, which stored fruits, vegetables, cereals, milk and so on. A mas has no windows on the north side, due to the mistral – a dramatic wind that whistles fiercely down the Rhone and then swings eastwards along the coast. The windows are narrow for protection against the heat during the summer or cold during the winter. Many of these old farmhouses have been converted into fashionable villas and charming hotels. What is a ‘MAS’? 52
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