avoided as the terrain has been its natural protector. Instead, this region is best known for its elegant, luxury villas many of which dot the steep hillsides overlooking the sea whilst in the meandering streets of Begur you will discover some wonderful little hotels, converted from some of the finest “Indianos” townhouses. Travelling both northwards and southwards from Cap Begur the coastline flattens into a number of long, sandy bays reminding us why the Costa Brava first attracted summer visitors. Certainly, in resort towns like Platja de Aro and Lloret de Mar you will feel the impact of late 20th-century high-rise development, but this has been restrained to the north in the Emporda. Away from the coast the landscape quickly reverts to farmlands, fruit and olive groves as well as dense pine forests. Dusty, old medieval villages await discovery with the lure of quaint restaurants serving local dishes. The villages of Pals and Peratallada bear a special mention as they have benefitted the most from sympathetic renovations. The best time to visit this beautiful, northern corner of Catalunya is during the dry, summer months. Early autumn can be spectacular with clement weather and sea temperatures persisting into October. Due to its proximity to the Pyrenees, winter months can be quite stormy and a favourite motif of the region is a compass map (Rosa dels Vents) that shows the eight winds that blow. Of these the most powerful is the Tramuntana that, like its French cousin the Mistral, is a howler that blows off the mountains southwards through the Emporda. Interestingly, it is an important wind for local winemakers, as the wind helps to prevent mould and rot on the vines during the winter months. For this reason the vines are planted in rows facing the mountains so that the wind races down the rows like one huge, natural hairdryer. In the summer, the wind is a clarion call to legions of windsurfers and kite boarders on the long, shallow beaches. For wet weather, beware the “Llevant”. Surrealism’s most famous artist was Salvador Dalí, born in Figures in 1904, who created paintings that he described as “hand-painted dream photographs”. His flamboyant lifestyle mirrored his art as he explored a world of subconscious imagery. Dalí, unlike other Surrealists, also introduced elements of autobiography into his art, with constant references to the landscape of Emporda and of course his muse and wife, Gala. He died in 1989 and rests in the crypt at Dali Theatre Museum in Figueres. salvador Dalí The cobbled alleys of medieval Peratallada The cove at Fornells The colourful buildings along the river, Girona Old Town The central atrium at Dali Theatre Museum, Figueres 30
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